I flew Premium Economy on Virgin Atlantic from Heathrow to Boston early this year. It wasn't quite business class. The seats are quite wide and roomy, but the seat belts are the same length as they are in economy, which makes them rather small for premium. Leg room isn't great either because each seat has some kind of block below it making it hard for tall people to stretch their feet out too far. My knees were bent the whole flight. The seats recline decently, but not all the way, so you're still at around 120 degrees. A little better than Economy, but the lack of leg room meant that sleep wasn't going to be easy.
Once you're seated, you get a glass of sparkling wine, which is apparently the only thing they're allowed to serve while on the ground. I'm not sure which authority that rule comes from.
The video screens are small. About the same size as the screens in Economy and half the size of the Economy screens on Jet Airways. The system was slow starting up but quick once it did start up. It appeared to be running X on linux.
Now while Premium Economy is a separate section on the aircraft, there are no toilets in this section. The nearest toilet is in Business Class, but you're not allowed to use it even if Business Class is empty. The toilet in Economy is two sections back, which means a long walk every time you need to use the loo. Not a big problem, but inconvenient.
On the whole it was an average experience. Not at all what I'd expect from Richard Branson's Virgin brand.
Walking the world in search of interestingness
Monday, January 17, 2011
Saturday, January 01, 2011
My year in towns and cities 2010
Time for another one of these annual summaries. This year was a long one with about 70 flights and me hitting Star Alliance Silver status early in the year. It's too bad all the US domestic Star Alliance carriers suck or I'd have reached Gold too. Anyway, here goes:
- Mumbai, MH, India
- Dubai, UAE
- Los Angeles, CA, USA
- Boston, MA, USA
- Brussels, Belgium
- Rio Grande, PR, USA
- Vieques, PR, USA
- San Juan, PR, USA
- Montreal, QC, Canada
- Hong Kong, China
- Bondi, NSW, Australia
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Newcastle, NSW, Australia
- Melbourne, Vic, Australia
- London, England
- Berlin, Germany
- San Diego, CA, USA
- West Yellowstone, MT, USA
- Wapiki, WY, USA
- Wright, WY, USA
- Sarasota, FL, USA
- New York, NY, USA
- Seattle, WA, USA
- Stowe, VT, USA
- Burlington, VT, USA
- Richmond, VA, USA
- Ithaca, NY, USA
- Ann Arbor, MI, USA
- Bangalore, KA, India
Thursday, August 19, 2010
JetBlue's All You Can Jet pass
About 40 hours ago JetBlue announced their All You Can Jet pass (better known to experienced jetters as #aycj). A few minutes ago they announced that the 7 day pass had sold out.
JetBlue introduced the pass last year and I jumped at the offer. I knew that I wasn't going to take time off work, but four weekends was still tempting, so I got mine as did many others. At the end of the 30 days though, a new community was built. A community that communicated over twitter using the #aycj tag as a chat room, that met at airport terminals, most notably T5 at JFK, and a bunch of strangers that identified each other by the little blue button with a twitter tag. A few of them turned into celebrities in their own right.
The hype really built up even after all passes were sold out. There was enough press and blog action that even if JetBlue didn't make a profit off of it, they definitely won many new loyal customers.
So why would an airline do this? The timing of the pass seems to answer that question. Traditionally, the period between Labour day (the first Monday in September) and Thanksgiving is when Americans fly the least. Except for really busy routes, most flights will go empty. This is a great time for airlines to throw out special offers, and it essentially turns into a pricing war between who can offer the cheapest seats.
JetBlue wins this round because they did something completely different. They didn't offer cheaper seats, they offered one very expensive seat that you can take with you for 30 days. The restrictions on booking ensure it isn't abused, and the result is fuller flights, and possibly more people paying $6 to watch movies on board.
I bought my pass this year a few minutes after I saw the first tweet about it, even before the email from JetBlue hit my inbox. Now, a little under two days later, the passes are sold out. It took a lot longer last year, and it will probably be a lot shorter next year.
Here's looking forward to another 4 weekends of travel.
The hype really built up even after all passes were sold out. There was enough press and blog action that even if JetBlue didn't make a profit off of it, they definitely won many new loyal customers.
So why would an airline do this? The timing of the pass seems to answer that question. Traditionally, the period between Labour day (the first Monday in September) and Thanksgiving is when Americans fly the least. Except for really busy routes, most flights will go empty. This is a great time for airlines to throw out special offers, and it essentially turns into a pricing war between who can offer the cheapest seats.
JetBlue wins this round because they did something completely different. They didn't offer cheaper seats, they offered one very expensive seat that you can take with you for 30 days. The restrictions on booking ensure it isn't abused, and the result is fuller flights, and possibly more people paying $6 to watch movies on board.
I bought my pass this year a few minutes after I saw the first tweet about it, even before the email from JetBlue hit my inbox. Now, a little under two days later, the passes are sold out. It took a lot longer last year, and it will probably be a lot shorter next year.
Here's looking forward to another 4 weekends of travel.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Puerto Rico to Vieques
There were but two ways to do it. We could go on for almost two hours, rocking from side to side, getting splashed with sea-spray, all for a little more than the price of dirt, or we could do it in under 10 minutes skimming over the surface and doing one quick turn for 20 bucks. We chose the latter, mainly because it meant we'd get an extra two hours of sleep before checking out of the hotel.
It was day two in Puerto Rico, and we'd gone to bed exhausted after a very long and awesome day spent on the beach followed by hiking the rain forest of El Yunque. Waking up early to catch a ferry for a 90 minute ride to Vieques wasn't exactly an appealing thought, but what choice did we have?
They called him Brooklyn — because that's where he hailed from. A New Yorker all through, he worked as a bell boy at the Wyndham because Puerto Rico was an awesome place to be. I told him our problem, and he says, "Hey bro, I have a better idea...". He whisks out a map and starts drawing, "you head down to Ceiba. There's a tiny little airport there, and you can get a flight to Vieques for $17. That's what I'd do. And they fly out every hour or so while there's only one ferry that'll get you there in time".
So we set out after a decent breakfast for the drive to Ceiba. It wasn't hard getting there, but we got lost nonetheless. Blame it on my inability to read signs in Spanish as they whizz past at 50mph. All the same, we made it in good time, and parked at the little parking lot. Walked in to the airport and were struck by how small it was.
There were three airline counters, they looked very similar to what you'd see at any commercial airport. Brooklyn suggested we fly Air Flamenco, so that's what we did. There was also Vieques Air Link (VAL for short) and another smaller airline.
As we got there, a flight was just leaving, and they told us that we'd be on the next one which was in an hour. We were scheduled to get onto a Kayak and Snorkeling tour at 2, and it was 11:30. We figured we had enough time.
That's when the thunderstorm hit. It poured like you'd expect in the tropics. Nothing to be afraid of, except not the kind of weather that a little 8 seater aircraft wants to fly in. We were stuck in Ceiba with no idea of when we'd get to Vieques. It was now 1:15, and we were really upset. It takes just about 8 minutes to fly from Ceiba to Vieques, and 10-15 minutes for a cab to get us from the airport to where we had to meet the tour. The guys at Ceiba signalled the pilot at Vieques telling him to be ready to leave as soon as he landed, and they called for a cab to meet us at the airport in Vieques.
We walked down to the plane — no TSA in sight, which was refreshing — and sat down. We were the only two passengers and sat right behind the pilot. We had an amazing view of the plane and the reef below. We flew so low that you could see right through the water to the coral below. The airplane had no air conditioning, instead there was a little opening in each of the windows to let the wind in. We touched down at Vieques at 1:45, grabbed our bags from the plane's hold and ran outside. Our cab was waiting for us, and got us to the shack that we were staying at. We checked in as quickly as we could and then ran to join the tour. We were a few minutes late, but they were still there going over safety requirements.
In the rush, we'd left our towels and change of clothes back at the shack, so what we were wearing was all that we had, but we made it for the kayak and snorkel trip, and that was totally worth it. More about that next time.
It was day two in Puerto Rico, and we'd gone to bed exhausted after a very long and awesome day spent on the beach followed by hiking the rain forest of El Yunque. Waking up early to catch a ferry for a 90 minute ride to Vieques wasn't exactly an appealing thought, but what choice did we have?
They called him Brooklyn — because that's where he hailed from. A New Yorker all through, he worked as a bell boy at the Wyndham because Puerto Rico was an awesome place to be. I told him our problem, and he says, "Hey bro, I have a better idea...". He whisks out a map and starts drawing, "you head down to Ceiba. There's a tiny little airport there, and you can get a flight to Vieques for $17. That's what I'd do. And they fly out every hour or so while there's only one ferry that'll get you there in time".
So we set out after a decent breakfast for the drive to Ceiba. It wasn't hard getting there, but we got lost nonetheless. Blame it on my inability to read signs in Spanish as they whizz past at 50mph. All the same, we made it in good time, and parked at the little parking lot. Walked in to the airport and were struck by how small it was.
As we got there, a flight was just leaving, and they told us that we'd be on the next one which was in an hour. We were scheduled to get onto a Kayak and Snorkeling tour at 2, and it was 11:30. We figured we had enough time.
That's when the thunderstorm hit. It poured like you'd expect in the tropics. Nothing to be afraid of, except not the kind of weather that a little 8 seater aircraft wants to fly in. We were stuck in Ceiba with no idea of when we'd get to Vieques. It was now 1:15, and we were really upset. It takes just about 8 minutes to fly from Ceiba to Vieques, and 10-15 minutes for a cab to get us from the airport to where we had to meet the tour. The guys at Ceiba signalled the pilot at Vieques telling him to be ready to leave as soon as he landed, and they called for a cab to meet us at the airport in Vieques.
In the rush, we'd left our towels and change of clothes back at the shack, so what we were wearing was all that we had, but we made it for the kayak and snorkel trip, and that was totally worth it. More about that next time.
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Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Bandra after midnight
Bandra used to be a little fishing village on the west coast of India. Part of the many islands that made up Mumbai city. Amidst tall buildings and fancy cars, you'll still find many small houses roofed with mangalore tiles with tiny by-lanes winding between them. There's a lot to see during the day, but after midnight once the air starts to cool down a bit that's when I like to head out.
The Kulfi is awesome. He has a variety of flavours including Pistachio, Mango, Chickoo, Malai and Chocolate. If you want to try all of them, he can make you a mixed plate. Each plate is 125gms of Kulfi for 25 Rupees (200 Rs/kilo). It used to be 10 when he just moved here, but I suppose people are willing to pay 25 for it.
Kulfi
On the corner of Manuel Gonsalves Road and Turner Road, right outside Axis bank, is a Kulfi walla. This guy has been around for a very long time. Longer than the bank even (HSBC used to be at that corner before Axis bank took over). He comes in fairly late in the evening, and stays until a little after midnight. He travels all the way from Meera Road on the Western Railway to spend a few hours selling Kulfi in a suburb where he can sell it for a little more. Since it would be really hard (and a little more expensive) for him to carry his cart and stand with him, he made a deal with the security guards at the bank to leave his cart there during the day so he only needs to travel with his icebox.The Kulfi is awesome. He has a variety of flavours including Pistachio, Mango, Chickoo, Malai and Chocolate. If you want to try all of them, he can make you a mixed plate. Each plate is 125gms of Kulfi for 25 Rupees (200 Rs/kilo). It used to be 10 when he just moved here, but I suppose people are willing to pay 25 for it.
Chai
After kulfi, head down Turner road to the sea-side promenade at Carter road. There you'll find guys on bicycles with a flask behind them. The flask contains hot sweet watery milk which they'll either add tea-bags to or instant coffee. Each cup is about 50ml and costs Rs 5. Rather expensive, but then there are people willing to pay that prce, and I'm guessing that a lot of it goes to the cops anyway in exchange for letting him sell his stuff without a license. The tea is really sweet and gets over before you know it, but it's a nice way to just hang out with friends and chat by the sea.Dosa
Now there also used to be a dosawalla around here, but I haven't seen him for a while. If you do, give him a try. He actually does have a license to sell dosas.Tuesday, April 06, 2010
Visas for an Indian traveller
I live in the US, but travel on an Indian passport. Almost every international trip I make is for business. Most of them to speak at a conference, and my schedule is pretty tight. I've already travelled to speak in Belgium, Canada and Hong Kong this year, and have upcoming gigs in Australia, the UK and Germany. Apart from Hong Kong, I need a visa to enter all the others, and visa processing time is what limits how much I can travel.
On average, it takes 3-5 business days to get a visa. Add to that the time that my passport and docs are in the mail and that's a little over a week that my passport isn't with me. This is for every trip that I need to make, and since I need my passport for every application as well as to make the trip, I can't do them in parallel.
The good news is that some countries let you have a visa for a year, sometimes more, but not all do. European countries grant a visa from the day of entry to the day of departure. My last trip to Belgium got me a 5 day visa. I'll probably get the same when I travel to Germany. My Canadian visa is valid until a few months before my US visa expires (go figure). The Australian visa is valid for a year, and has a fairly simple application process. A UK visa may be granted for anywhere between 6 months to 10 years, but the application process is fairly involved.
Some applications require you to go for an interview, and some don't. Either way, I've always had good experiences with the various embassy staff, but the Australian Embassy in Washington DC has been the friendliest.
Over the next couple of months I'll fly to the US, apply for a German and Australian visa, fly to Australia, fly back to the US, apply for a British visa, then fly to the UK and Germany and then back home to relax for a bit.
I hear that tourist visas are easier to get than business visas. You need to show more money, but need fewer docs. Travellers from Europe and most American countries don't require a visa to most destinations.
On average, it takes 3-5 business days to get a visa. Add to that the time that my passport and docs are in the mail and that's a little over a week that my passport isn't with me. This is for every trip that I need to make, and since I need my passport for every application as well as to make the trip, I can't do them in parallel.
The good news is that some countries let you have a visa for a year, sometimes more, but not all do. European countries grant a visa from the day of entry to the day of departure. My last trip to Belgium got me a 5 day visa. I'll probably get the same when I travel to Germany. My Canadian visa is valid until a few months before my US visa expires (go figure). The Australian visa is valid for a year, and has a fairly simple application process. A UK visa may be granted for anywhere between 6 months to 10 years, but the application process is fairly involved.
Some applications require you to go for an interview, and some don't. Either way, I've always had good experiences with the various embassy staff, but the Australian Embassy in Washington DC has been the friendliest.
Over the next couple of months I'll fly to the US, apply for a German and Australian visa, fly to Australia, fly back to the US, apply for a British visa, then fly to the UK and Germany and then back home to relax for a bit.
I hear that tourist visas are easier to get than business visas. You need to show more money, but need fewer docs. Travellers from Europe and most American countries don't require a visa to most destinations.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Cheap way from HK airport to the city
Now, if you're willing to take a little longer, but want the cheap way, then what you should do is get the S1 bus from the airport to Tung Chung station. Ticket price: HK$3.60. Note, don't take the S64 because that takes you on a tour of rather uninteresting places. Once at Tung Chung, buy a tourist day pass, valid for 24 hours from first use. Price: HK$55. You can use this day pass to get in to the city, and all around on the the MTR and light rail. The ticket comes with a small subway map that you can use to navigate. You'll take the Orange (Tung Chung) Line in to the city, and get off wherever you want to. To go around the island, get off at Hong Kong and then walk to Central and take the Blue (Island) line from there.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
A $730 flight ticket for $150
Between the months of October and March, airports like Washington DC and Denver are frequently closed due to snow storms. If you happen to have booked a flight through one of these airports, the airline will cancel it and possibly rebook you on an alternate flight. This may not always be the flight you want.
A couple of weeks ago, this happened to me. I was to fly from San Jose, CA to Boston, MA via Denver. San Jose is fairly close to where I live, so it's the most convenient airport for me. Unfortunately, very few airlines fly directly from San Jose to Boston, hence the stopover in Denver. Early on the morning of the flight, I received a voicemail from United saying that my flight had been cancelled due to bad weather. I called back a little later to check on alternatives.
The call centre agent suggested a flight out of San Francisco that was to leave in 2 hours, but there was no way I could make it to SFO by then. He then suggested a flight the following day, but that was too late for me. He then offered to re-book me on American Airlines out of San Jose around the same time that my original flight was supposed to leave. I found this rather suspicious. While he was searching for alternatives, I did the same online, and found that there were still seats available for the night flight from SFO to Boston. I'd have enough time to reach SFO and would make it early the next morning instead of late that night, which was fine.
I pointed out this flight to the agent, and he reluctantly confirmed that there was, in fact, one seat left on that flight. When I checked online, I found that this ticket was worth $734. I'd paid about $150 or $170 for my original ticket, so he was naturally reluctant to get me that seat. It would actually have been cheaper for them to rebook me on American, except that I wouldn't get any miles for that. All the same, there wasn't much more he could do except warn me that any further changes would come at a price.
The flight was packed, and quite a few people were bumped up to first class. I wasn't, but my seat was assigned at the gate. I got a middle exit row seat, with plenty of leg room.
When I checked my mileage account later, I'd been credited over 4000 miles for the flight instead of the 1200 that I usually get for this leg.
A couple of weeks ago, this happened to me. I was to fly from San Jose, CA to Boston, MA via Denver. San Jose is fairly close to where I live, so it's the most convenient airport for me. Unfortunately, very few airlines fly directly from San Jose to Boston, hence the stopover in Denver. Early on the morning of the flight, I received a voicemail from United saying that my flight had been cancelled due to bad weather. I called back a little later to check on alternatives.
The call centre agent suggested a flight out of San Francisco that was to leave in 2 hours, but there was no way I could make it to SFO by then. He then suggested a flight the following day, but that was too late for me. He then offered to re-book me on American Airlines out of San Jose around the same time that my original flight was supposed to leave. I found this rather suspicious. While he was searching for alternatives, I did the same online, and found that there were still seats available for the night flight from SFO to Boston. I'd have enough time to reach SFO and would make it early the next morning instead of late that night, which was fine.
I pointed out this flight to the agent, and he reluctantly confirmed that there was, in fact, one seat left on that flight. When I checked online, I found that this ticket was worth $734. I'd paid about $150 or $170 for my original ticket, so he was naturally reluctant to get me that seat. It would actually have been cheaper for them to rebook me on American, except that I wouldn't get any miles for that. All the same, there wasn't much more he could do except warn me that any further changes would come at a price.
The flight was packed, and quite a few people were bumped up to first class. I wasn't, but my seat was assigned at the gate. I got a middle exit row seat, with plenty of leg room.
When I checked my mileage account later, I'd been credited over 4000 miles for the flight instead of the 1200 that I usually get for this leg.
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Saturday, January 02, 2010
My year in towns and cities - 2009
Apart from redesigning my entire website this year, I also did a lot of travelling, and also hosted a lot of couchsurfers. It would have been much more actually, but I've had to cancel two trips, one to Singapore and one to Brazil, and couldn't get funding for a trip to Taiwan. The places I did go to were:
- San Luis Obispo, CA, USA
- Boston, MA, USA
- West Palm Beach, FL, USA
- Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
- Key Largo, FL, USA
- Montreal, QC, Canada
- Los Angeles, CA, USA
- Sydney, Australia
- Canberra, Australia
- Melbourne, Australia
- Portland, OR, USA
- Bombay, MH, India
- Toronto, ON, Canada
- Pittsburgh, PA, USA
- North Nashua, NH, USA
- New York City, NY, USA
- Bangalore, KA, India
Sunday, December 14, 2008
My year in towns and cities - 2008
Wow, I haven't posted in a while - almost a year in fact. That can only mean that I haven't been stationary long enough to update. So, I bring you this year in towns and cities. It's still December, but I'm pretty sure that I won't be making any trips in the next three weeks.
Update:
Guess I spoke to soon - did an end of year trip to Lake Tahoe as well.
- Myrtle Beach, SC, USA
- Mumbai, India
- Chandigarh, India
- Bangalore, India
- New York City, NY, USA
- Cold Spring, NY, USA
- Santa Barbara, CA, USA
- Jackson, NH, USA,
- Toronto, ON, Canada
- Ottawa, ON, Canada
- Chicago, IL, USA
- Monterey, CA, USA
- Boston, MA, USA
- Seattle, WA, USA
- Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Hong Kong, China
- South Lake Tahoe, CA, USA
Update:
Guess I spoke to soon - did an end of year trip to Lake Tahoe as well.
Friday, January 11, 2008
My year in towns and cities
I travelled a lot in 2007. Here's the list of places where I spent at least one night:
- Mumbai, India
- Irity, KL, India
- New Delhi, India
- Sunnyvale, CA, USA
- Kochi, KL, India
- Portland, OR, USA
- Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Toronto, ON, Canada
- Mississauga, ON, Canada
- Montreal, PQ, Canada
- Boston, MA, USA
- New York, NY, USA
- Fairfax, VA, USA
- Gurgaon, HR, India
- Naggar, HP, India
- Karkala, KA, India
- Mangalore, KA, India
- Chennai, TN, India
- Napa Valley, CA, USA
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Vancouvering
Anyway, I know I have a long post about my US trip pending, but this one is going to be about my experience in Canada, more specifically Vancouver.
I entered the country on the 7th August from San Francisco. The United Airlines flight I flew didn't serve anything to eat, but I wasn't feeling too hungry anyway. The flight was pretty decent, and on time. We touched down in Vancouver at around 22:55, and I headed off to immigration. Had to fill out one of those customs forms before deplaning - the one that says that you're not carrying animal products, diseases, chemical weapons or case in excess of $10000. I wasn't.
The immigration official was really nice. He greeted me with a bonjour, and when I told him that I'd done some work with the Canada home page, he said that it was about time I'd visited Canada and let me go through.
My uncle and aunt met me outside the terminal and we drove home, but my uncle suggested that I try flying in to Bellingham in Washington the next time and drive in from there - that way I don't need to take an international flight, which is more expensive.
I took the SkyTrain into town. You can get a day pass from the station, and use that for all of TransLink's services which include the SkyTrain, the SeaBus and all the public transport buses in Vancouver and North Vancouver. This really cuts your costs down a lot. The day pass costs $8 and is valid for unlimited trips in a day. The SkyTrain gets you into the centre of town at the waterfront, from where you can take the SeaBus to cross the creek to Lonsdale Quay, but we'll get to that later.
You could instead get off earlier, at Science World, Stadium, Granville or Burrard and walk around those parts of town. There's stuff to do, mainly shopping, but also some sight seeing around there. If you go all the way to the Waterfront, you can start at the Vancouver Lookout.
Get out of Waterfront station, and cross the road to the Harbour centre. Get a ticket for $13 - valid for the entire day, and go up to the top to get a 360 degree view of Vancouver and surrounding towns. On a clear day you can see forever. You can also decide where you want to go from here, because there's loads of tourist brochures available at the top in case you missed them at the Waterfront station.
There are guided tours of gas town that start from the statue, but you'll have to find out the timings. You can leave Gas Town soon because you'll probably want to get back for dinner anyway.
The next thing you can do is take the SeaBus from Waterfront station to get across the creek and
The suspension bridge itself is not as long as the Capillano Bridge which is where all the tourists head out to, but there's a huge difference in price as well. The Capillano bridge is $26.50 for people from outside British Columbia, while Lynn Valley is free for everyone. There's also fewer crowds at Lynn Valley.
I chose not to do the full trail - mainly because I had a laptop and tripod on my back, but many people did go through. I prefer hanging out near water, and it was very inviting. The water is cool and very clear. You'd feel like bottling some of it and carrying it with you. It's constantly flowing, and flowing fast, so my guess is that it would be fairly pure.
Once you're done with Lynn Valley, take the same bus back, and cross back to the Waterfront. You
I kept on, and reached the famous Stanley Park. Now, when I got in, I thought a park was a small thing. Central Park and Hyde Park were two of the largest parks I'd seen in the world, but I could easily walk across them in a short time. Stanley Park is nothing of the sorts. It has a couple of lakes, a pond, a Native American village, a couple of Hiking Trails, a forest, a boating club, an open air theatre, several gardens and a highway going through it. Grease - the musical - was playing at the theatre as I passed. It's easy to get lost in there, so keep your eye on the map and on the various landmarks around.
A second option would be to walk down from Waterfront to the Burrard bridge. You can cross the bridge on foot, or take a ferry across. You'll find the Vancouver Museum, the Maritime Museum and the space centre on Granville island. It's not really an island, but I'm guessing it was at some point.
Vancouver also has a bunch of farmer's markets that are open on weekends, so if you get a chance, go down there and mingle with the locals. I've been in love with farmer's markets ever since I visited Borough market in London. I'd also suggest looking up Upcoming for stuff to do in Vancouver on the days that you're there, and maybe even contact some of the locals on CouchSurfing and ask them. I've found both places very helpful.
Now, if you've been heading along at a good pace, you've probably still got a bit of daylight to go. That's assuming, of course, that you're travelling in summer, which is the best time, for various reasons. Let's talk about food first before we go further.
Vancouver is very multi cultural. You'll find every cuisine in the world here, but there is the Vancouver flavour added. This is where asking the locals on couchsurfing comes in handy. Many of the restaurants I saw were multi-cuisine, with flavours from Greece, South America, Lebanon and Asia all in one. There's also specialty Korean, Japanese, Mexican, Italian and Indian places. I lunched at a restaurant called Character's and had a Greek dish called Dolmates. This is vine leaves stuffed with mince and served with a thick white sauce, roasted potatoes and tsatsiki. Now tsatsiki is a special greek dressing that goes well with just about anything. I've had it with gyros before, and now with this. A must try. I can't say that there's any cuisine that's specifically Canadian, or a Vancouver speciality. They just add something with the blend.
As sunset approaches, head back to Gas town. The place is all lit up by night, so walk around again, and maybe get some dinner here. If you're willing to spend a lot on dinner, you may want to eat at the tower instead.
Head up to the Lookout and get a view of Vancouver by night. The ticket you bought earlier in the day is still valid, so you don't need to spend any more. If you're going to take pictures here, make sure you have a lens with Vibration Reduction, or use a tripod. Long exposures can really enhance Vancouver by night.When flying in, I spoke to a Chinese Canadian girl who was studying Japanese Literature History at U Vic. I asked her if there was a lot of French spoken here, and she said that it wasn't because it was full of Asians. What I saw was a little different. There were all kinds of Europeans around, and quite a bit of French was spoken. There was also German, Spanish, Italian
If you're spending more than a day in Vancouver, you could take one of the city tour buses. There's the grayline opentop buses and there's the green trolleys. They cost $12, and you can go around in 2 hours, or you can get off the bus at various stops to explore and stretch it over the entire day. They also sell tickets for various attractions on the bus itself.
On the way out of Vancouver, I decided to use public transport. I took the SkyTrain into the city, and had lunch with an old classmate of mine. Then headed down to Burrard station and caught bus number 491. The day pass works on this as well. The bus runs through most of downtown before it gets out of the city. It starts at Seymour and Davie, and heads to Hastings, then Burrard Station, then Nelson, Howe and Granville before heading south for the airport. Burrard was late enough in its route to avoid another city tour, but close enough to not make me walk too much.
Now bus number 491 won't take you all the way to the airport. It takes you to airport station, where you need to change buses. Cross the road from the bus stop, and walk into the bus terminus (there's also a few bus stops on the road, but these aren't what you're looking for). You need to find the stop for bus number 424. Route 424 heads to the airport terminal and then further on. You'll most likely find a lot of travellers around here, so just follow them. Make sure you get off at the right terminal. Visit the translink website (http://translink.bc.ca/) in advance to figure out what you want to do. This could also help you in planning your trips around the city and getting schedules.
After a while at the airport - there's no free wifi btw - I boarded Westjet flight 626 for Toronto. I'd already checked in online, so I only needed to pick up my boarding pass and check my luggage at the airport. Security was fairly painless. There's no concept of "Selected for Secondary Security Screening", better known as SSSS on your boarding pass, but you do need to scan your laptop separately.
Goodbye Vancouver, and I hope to visit again. I'm sure there's more for me to do, but I'll do that when I've planned well.
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Tuesday, April 03, 2007
Lost in London
Outside of India London and New York are probably my two favourite cities in the world. They're both teeming with art, culture, fashion, food and commerce, all at the same time. London, more than anywhere else, boasts a mélange of peoples from around the world. Primarily Europeans, but quite a sizeable population of North African, Middle Eastern, Australian and East and South East Asian peoples. For a student of languages, I can't think of any place tastier.
The best way to get around a city like this is to get lost. Get lost intentionally as many times as you can. This isn't a largely planned city. It's an old city that's been rebuilt once, and the large number of lanes and alleys can find interesting squares. I'm a little partial towards the West End because that's the liveliest part of town. The areas around Picadilly Circus, Leicester Square, Oxford Street and Bond Street have the biggest department stores, theatres and restaurants. Then there's the uptown residential areas of Hyde Park and Notting Hill, with a few expensive restaurants and pubs. You'd need quite a bit of time to take it all in.
Local Londoners are a busy bunch. Always hurried, almost running. Perhaps it's because they always need to get somewhere, or perhaps it's to counter the cold. The thing that I've learnt is to not bother keeping pace with the crowd. Let them move on, just feel the whoosh as they go by.
Taking off from Mumbai and landing in London during the day is a strange experience. From the air, the roads and traffic look almost the same. Red buses, driving on the left, and traffic buoys. One can see immediately where Mumbai's architectural influence came from.
I've visited the UK a few times, three of them as an adult, and London's been on the cards on every occasion. I've been here at all times of the year, and I can't say that the weather changes much. It's sunny when it's sunny and it's rainy when it's rainy... and often it's both at the same time. For someone from the tropics, it's cold throughout the year, but in winter it's freezing.
Getting around is fairly easy. The tube will get you anywhere, and a day pass is valid on any train and bus throughout the day. There are travel zones from 1 to 6 depending on where you need to go and can get you all the way from Heathrow airport to the centre of town... which is a very convenient way to get from the airport to any place you need to get to — if you don't have too much luggage.
There are innumerable tourist booklets with lists of sights and places to see. What I recommend is to take one of those tourist buses that get you all around London in a day. For a little extra they throw in a boat ride down the Thames. I started out at Baker Street - the home of Sherlock Holmes. Walk down to the Sherlock Holmes museum, and then the Beatles museum. Get done with Madame Tussade's and the Planetarium. You may want to get a combined ticket and go into the Planetarium first. You'll avoid the long line for the wax museum. Then get onto a bus and take the tour. Get off anywhere and roam around.
The London Dungeon, Tower and Tower Bridge are all near each other, and a night walk by the Thames, and across London Bridge is lovely, especially if you have the right company. The London eye offers a complete view of the city, but it doesn't compare to actually being there.
Walk around Hyde Park, and visit Portobello Road at Notting Hill for the antique market every Saturday. You might just find an interesting bargain. If farmer's markets are your thing, head down to the Borough market at London Bridge, also on Saturdays. Try the Ostrich or Kangaroo burgers. They're delicious.
If you already have your route planned, and have done some research on spots of interest, it may be cheaper to just get a Zone 4 or 5 travel card and take the red buses around. Traditional tourist locations include Westminster, Trafalgar Square, St. James' Park, Buckingham Palace and St. Paul's Cathedral, but be a little adventurous. Walk around and find places.
Take the tube down to Greenwich and have a look at Cutty Sark. Search for the prime meridien. Look for pubs with interesting names like The Pig's head or Trotting Horse. Step into the Roundabout and watch a local game of football or cricket. Walk down to the West side and go to the theatre, then stray into China Town and take in the aroma. Be part of life here, because there's a lot of it around.
There's much to choose from for the seasoned gourmand. Take your pick from Italian, French, Belgian, North African, Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Thai, Malaysian, Caribbean, German, and whatever else you can find. There are restaurants everywhere serving every cuisine, and where there aren't, you'll find a host of pubs. Just explore.
Fashion. London is one of the big four cities for fashion, and heck there's a lot of it here. On the streets, in the department stores, in restaurants, in night clubs. Everywhere. I'm not an authority on fashion, heck, I don't have any dress sense, but fashion is hard to miss in London. If shopping's your thing, you won't be displeased. Go all out.
Whether its food, finance or fashion, art, history or language, music, movies or haberdashery, London has it all. Visit London, and visit often.
Local Londoners are a busy bunch. Always hurried, almost running. Perhaps it's because they always need to get somewhere, or perhaps it's to counter the cold. The thing that I've learnt is to not bother keeping pace with the crowd. Let them move on, just feel the whoosh as they go by.
Taking off from Mumbai and landing in London during the day is a strange experience. From the air, the roads and traffic look almost the same. Red buses, driving on the left, and traffic buoys. One can see immediately where Mumbai's architectural influence came from.
Getting around is fairly easy. The tube will get you anywhere, and a day pass is valid on any train and bus throughout the day. There are travel zones from 1 to 6 depending on where you need to go and can get you all the way from Heathrow airport to the centre of town... which is a very convenient way to get from the airport to any place you need to get to — if you don't have too much luggage.
If you already have your route planned, and have done some research on spots of interest, it may be cheaper to just get a Zone 4 or 5 travel card and take the red buses around. Traditional tourist locations include Westminster, Trafalgar Square, St. James' Park, Buckingham Palace and St. Paul's Cathedral, but be a little adventurous. Walk around and find places.
There's much to choose from for the seasoned gourmand. Take your pick from Italian, French, Belgian, North African, Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Thai, Malaysian, Caribbean, German, and whatever else you can find. There are restaurants everywhere serving every cuisine, and where there aren't, you'll find a host of pubs. Just explore.
Fashion. London is one of the big four cities for fashion, and heck there's a lot of it here. On the streets, in the department stores, in restaurants, in night clubs. Everywhere. I'm not an authority on fashion, heck, I don't have any dress sense, but fashion is hard to miss in London. If shopping's your thing, you won't be displeased. Go all out.
Whether its food, finance or fashion, art, history or language, music, movies or haberdashery, London has it all. Visit London, and visit often.
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Monday, February 05, 2007
Six hours in Hong Kong
On my return from California to India, I flew via Hong Kong. The flight timings left me with about nine hours in Hong Kong, and little idea of what to do. I learned that I could take the airport express into the city, and if I returned on the same day, I only had to pay one way. I quickly grabbed some breakfast and a map of the city, and jumped onto a train.
While on the train, I figured out the scale of the map, and realised that Hong Kong is really small - that's if you look at it area wise. Turn your head upwards, and small wouldn't quite fit.
I got into town, and found my way out of the station. The road is two or three levels up. It was still fairly early in the morning, around 6:30am or so, and there were low clouds all along. A light drizzle kept starting and stopping.
I walked down the road for a while trying to figure out where on the map I was. The cool thing about the map that I had, was that all major buildings were listed, so it was easy to figure out where I was once I saw the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank and Bank of China. It was then easy to decide where I wanted to go and plan out my route for the next few hours.
Hong Kong is walkable for the most part. All department stores and office buildings are near each other, as is the Hong Kong park and Banks. It's also possible to get around without actually walking out into the open because all buildings are connected to each other.
Hong Kong has good public transport. Bus services are run by various companies, but it's seldom necessary to take one. A popular form of transport is the city tram. These trams run along fixed rails across the city, and it's crazy how close each tram runs to the one in front.
I decided to start my day with a visit to The Peak and get a view of the whole of Hong Kong city. There are multiple ways to get up to the peak. There's the hiker's trail, a road for driving, and buses, but the most fun ride has to be the peak tram.
The first thing you notice when you get into the tram is that the floor is made up of a series of concave sections. They look like steps, but they're all along the same horizontal level. Once the tram starts, you realise what they're for. The tram starts picking up elevation, and gets pretty close to a 45 degree incline. The steps on the floor are for people standing in the tram to hold their grip. The tram has wooden seats and no seat belts. Windows are largely open, and it's recommended that you keep your hands inside.
The greenery around is amazing. Don't miss the little streams of water and flowers growing on the side. It's very pretty.
The real view though, is from the top, when you see the entire city enveloped in clouds. It's a sight that will stay with me forever.
Hong Kong is really close to the equator, and the humidity is really high.The cloud cover should protect you from the sun, but you can lose a lot of water perspiring, so carry a bunch of juices with you.
Reaching the peak is just part of the adventure. Once you get up there, you get to the start of the peak trail - a common trail for morning walkers and runners. The trail is 2 kilometres long, with markers every hundred metres. It was about 7:15 when I got there, so I decided to do part of the trail. I walked down for half the distance. On the way you pass a little waterfall and a lot of great views.
After getting back down from the peak, I headed out to Hong Kong park. The park houses Hong Kong's walk-through aviary and the teaware museum.
The aviary is a large net with trees and a pond inside. A bunch of captive birds are allowed to fly free in there. They have several species of birds from South-east Asia including Hong Kong, China, Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. I believe some of them are migratory and come from as far away as Siberia.
The teaware museum in Hong Kong park walks you through the history of tea making in China. Different utensils and recipes are on show. They have a few videos in addition to all the models.
You can also access the Internet from here. Two Windows PCs sitting in the corridor are permanently connected to the net. You can only use Internet Explorer however, so if you need to chat, use a web based messenger, and if you need other services, forget it.
The last place on my list was Ocean Park. To get to ocean park, you need to take a bus from in between the Lippo Towers. You can buy bus tickets as well as entrance tickets for Ocean Park at the bus stop. The bus takes you all the way to Ocean Park, and brings you back. Once there you enter and go through on your own.
Take note that you can find discount booklets at the airport which offer you discounts to various places, Ocean Park included.
Ocean park has several sights to see. For visitors from most other parts of the world, the Panda Habitat would probably be the biggest attraction. They have two Pandas - a male and a female. They aren't caged in, but are separated from visitors by a moat. The entrance to the panda habitat is accessible for people in wheelchairs and mothers with baby strollers. Try not to use the flash when taking pictures as this could disturb the animals. The same goes for other areas in Ocean Park. Near the Panda Habitat is the Butterfly house and a pool with flamingos.
Ocean Park is made in two parts - the upper area and the lower area. The lower area is connected by road to the rest of Hong Kong. The upper area isn't. The only way to access the upper area is via Cable Car from the lower area.
The cable car ride itself is slow and scenic, but if you're afraid of heights, it probably isn't for you. You can get a really good view of the South China sea from there.
On the other side, you can go for several shows if you have the time. I didn't, but I did have time to visit the aquarium and the shark enclosure. The aquarium is small, but pretty. They have a collection of Jellyfish, razor fish, clown fish, sea horses and more. There's a large tank with Sting rays and other fish, and they're really graceful gliding through.
The shark enclosure is nothing much to check out, and one can give it a miss.
Time was ticking on, and I had to head back to the city. I got on the next bus, but was stuck in traffic as soon as I got back into Hong Kong. It would probably have been better to walk once I'd gotten back, but the bus won't let you off before the end.
Now visiting parks in Hong Kong is nice for the morning, but really, that isn't what Hong Kong is about. Shopping and food are the primary attractions in Hong Kong, and if you have the time, seeking out good roadside eateries should be on your list. I didn't have much time, so walked into an office building and looked around for where most people were heading at lunch time.
I ended up at a food court with a wide range of local food. One meal really isn't enough to recommend something, so I'll refrain from giving any advice in that area. Walking around the same area brings you to some of the biggest department stores. You can walk from building to building without getting out, wading through a sea of stores. It's a shopper's delight.
Prices were a little beyond my budget, and my little back pack wasn't going to carry much. It was also getting pretty close to departure time, and had to head back to the airport.
I got onto the next train, and made it to the airport quite close to boarding time. I'd recommend getting back to the airport at least 45 minutes before boarding time which should give you enough time for a shower and a change of clothes before you board. You'll need it.
Hong Kong was hot, humid and a treat. I'd love to go back there and spend a little more time. I hear the night life is great and the night view from one of those tall buildings is breathtaking.
I've got many more photos up on flickr and some videos on youtube.
Update:
I've returned to Hong Kong a few times since my first trip, and I never stop liking it. I've also discovered that you can make it between the airport and the city for far less if you use public transport instead of the airport train. You need to take a bus from the airport to Tung Chung and then take the train in. If you're going to stay for more than a day, it's worth it to get an Oyster card. You need to put in a deposit for it, but you get it back along with your balance when you return the card at the end of your stay.
From Tung Chung, you can also take the cable car or a bus to head to the buddhist monastery at Ngong Ping. They have a very large bronze statue of the Buddha at the top of the peak. Another destination is the fishing village of Tai'O. There's a bus from Tung Chung to Tai'O. It's a long ride and there's just one or two stops on the way. Most of the village is actually built on the water with boats parked outside or under people's houses. They step out and sail away. It's quite interesting to just walk around the village and note how it's built. Just after dark we were looking around for a restaurant, and saw some people eating in an open area, so we walked in. It turned out to be someone's house and they didn't speak English. Then one of the kids from the house showed up and she spoke a little English and pointed us to the nearest restaurant.
At Tai'O you can also go on a little boat ride for HK$20. If you're lucky, you'll see pink dolphins, but even otherwise, the ride is quite nice. It's also a good place to watch the sunset.
For food, three things I recommend are the Dim Sum, the Custard Buns and the Cham — a drink of coffee and milk tea. The latter is guaranteed to help you through the worst jetlag.
I got into town, and found my way out of the station. The road is two or three levels up. It was still fairly early in the morning, around 6:30am or so, and there were low clouds all along. A light drizzle kept starting and stopping.
Hong Kong is walkable for the most part. All department stores and office buildings are near each other, as is the Hong Kong park and Banks. It's also possible to get around without actually walking out into the open because all buildings are connected to each other.
I decided to start my day with a visit to The Peak and get a view of the whole of Hong Kong city. There are multiple ways to get up to the peak. There's the hiker's trail, a road for driving, and buses, but the most fun ride has to be the peak tram.
The greenery around is amazing. Don't miss the little streams of water and flowers growing on the side. It's very pretty.
Hong Kong is really close to the equator, and the humidity is really high.The cloud cover should protect you from the sun, but you can lose a lot of water perspiring, so carry a bunch of juices with you.
Reaching the peak is just part of the adventure. Once you get up there, you get to the start of the peak trail - a common trail for morning walkers and runners. The trail is 2 kilometres long, with markers every hundred metres. It was about 7:15 when I got there, so I decided to do part of the trail. I walked down for half the distance. On the way you pass a little waterfall and a lot of great views.
The aviary is a large net with trees and a pond inside. A bunch of captive birds are allowed to fly free in there. They have several species of birds from South-east Asia including Hong Kong, China, Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. I believe some of them are migratory and come from as far away as Siberia.
You can also access the Internet from here. Two Windows PCs sitting in the corridor are permanently connected to the net. You can only use Internet Explorer however, so if you need to chat, use a web based messenger, and if you need other services, forget it.
The last place on my list was Ocean Park. To get to ocean park, you need to take a bus from in between the Lippo Towers. You can buy bus tickets as well as entrance tickets for Ocean Park at the bus stop. The bus takes you all the way to Ocean Park, and brings you back. Once there you enter and go through on your own.
Take note that you can find discount booklets at the airport which offer you discounts to various places, Ocean Park included.
The cable car ride itself is slow and scenic, but if you're afraid of heights, it probably isn't for you. You can get a really good view of the South China sea from there.
The shark enclosure is nothing much to check out, and one can give it a miss.
Time was ticking on, and I had to head back to the city. I got on the next bus, but was stuck in traffic as soon as I got back into Hong Kong. It would probably have been better to walk once I'd gotten back, but the bus won't let you off before the end.
Now visiting parks in Hong Kong is nice for the morning, but really, that isn't what Hong Kong is about. Shopping and food are the primary attractions in Hong Kong, and if you have the time, seeking out good roadside eateries should be on your list. I didn't have much time, so walked into an office building and looked around for where most people were heading at lunch time.
I ended up at a food court with a wide range of local food. One meal really isn't enough to recommend something, so I'll refrain from giving any advice in that area. Walking around the same area brings you to some of the biggest department stores. You can walk from building to building without getting out, wading through a sea of stores. It's a shopper's delight.
Prices were a little beyond my budget, and my little back pack wasn't going to carry much. It was also getting pretty close to departure time, and had to head back to the airport.
I got onto the next train, and made it to the airport quite close to boarding time. I'd recommend getting back to the airport at least 45 minutes before boarding time which should give you enough time for a shower and a change of clothes before you board. You'll need it.
Hong Kong was hot, humid and a treat. I'd love to go back there and spend a little more time. I hear the night life is great and the night view from one of those tall buildings is breathtaking.
I've got many more photos up on flickr and some videos on youtube.
Update:
I've returned to Hong Kong a few times since my first trip, and I never stop liking it. I've also discovered that you can make it between the airport and the city for far less if you use public transport instead of the airport train. You need to take a bus from the airport to Tung Chung and then take the train in. If you're going to stay for more than a day, it's worth it to get an Oyster card. You need to put in a deposit for it, but you get it back along with your balance when you return the card at the end of your stay.
From Tung Chung, you can also take the cable car or a bus to head to the buddhist monastery at Ngong Ping. They have a very large bronze statue of the Buddha at the top of the peak. Another destination is the fishing village of Tai'O. There's a bus from Tung Chung to Tai'O. It's a long ride and there's just one or two stops on the way. Most of the village is actually built on the water with boats parked outside or under people's houses. They step out and sail away. It's quite interesting to just walk around the village and note how it's built. Just after dark we were looking around for a restaurant, and saw some people eating in an open area, so we walked in. It turned out to be someone's house and they didn't speak English. Then one of the kids from the house showed up and she spoke a little English and pointed us to the nearest restaurant.
At Tai'O you can also go on a little boat ride for HK$20. If you're lucky, you'll see pink dolphins, but even otherwise, the ride is quite nice. It's also a good place to watch the sunset.
For food, three things I recommend are the Dim Sum, the Custard Buns and the Cham — a drink of coffee and milk tea. The latter is guaranteed to help you through the worst jetlag.
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Saturday, January 28, 2006
Goa
I love Goa. Not because it's the ideal holiday location, or because of the beaches or all night parties. It's much deeper. It's the feeling you get when you breathe in. The greenery, the architecture, the colours, the smells, the fish and fisherfolk, the Konkani and seated above it all, the people and their attitude towards life.
I've made many a trip to Goa, for business, pleasure and parties, and they've always been the most relaxing, and enjoyable trips of my life.
There is no best way to get to Goa. Boat, bus, train and air, each have their own charms to offer. Flying to Goa from Bombay takes you down by the coast, with beaches all the way.
You need to stay on the port (left) side of the plane. From Bangalore, it's more fields, and then trees and mountains. By bus, there's the stars in the ghats and villages by day and the same holds for the train. A boat to Goa is relaxing and refreshing provided you aren't prone to sea sickness.
Within Goa, I always travel by bus.
I travel by air a lot, and I like it more because of the bus ride from the airport to Panaji. One passes through Chikalim, then on past Saõ Jacinto island, over the Zuari - which is beautiful on both sides, and through numerous villages to get to Bambolim and Panaji. Small eateries on the side of the road invite you in with signs of Sorpotel and Sannas.
Goa is synonymous with great beaches. Right from the north to the south. Southern beaches are far less crowded though. The beaches at Baga and Calangute are extremely popular with foreign tourists, and an unending line of deck chairs greet you as you walk down to the beach at Baga. Calangute on the other hand is just filled with crowds. If you're not interested in getting into the water, then a night walk without the crowds is better.
I'll let you in to a little secret. If you're taking a night walk, walk slowly near where the waves come in. Perhaps even stop and sit for a while, and look closely for movement. If you're lucky, you might see small birds running after the wave as it goes out trying to get at the microscopic creatures they bring in. I don't know what they're called though, and it's really tough to see them at night. At first I thought that they were crabs, but then they chirped and flew away.
Further south, the beach of Bogmalo is a long stretch of white sands and blue water, and little else. There aren't too many people around this area.
Sitting in one of the beach side shacks eating Rava Fried King Fish and sipping beer is sheer heaven and not to be missed.
One of my favourite beaches is the Cove at Dona Paula. It's a really small beach, and at high tide, the water covers it completely. The area is really safe for swimming as the cove formed by rocks some way out completely shield you from currents in the open ocean. The rocks on the side are nice to sit on and ponder. It's hard to find though, so get to Dona Paula, and ask the locals for the beach between the two resorts. Also ask about the legend of Dona Paula and get some Goan sausage bread at Menino's on the Jetty, and if you can, get Sunday mass at the Governor's mansion.
Goa's two main rivers - the Mandovi and the Zuari - are a lifeline for the inner parts of the state. You'll find children swimming in them, and fishermen going out for freshwater fish. These are areas of Goa not touched by tourists, and if you know a local, it's best to go around with them. Both rivers meet the sea at Panaji.
There's too much to do in Goa, and too much to miss if you're on a short trip. Dining aboard a boat is an experience, but not all boats have great chefs, so pick carefully. You're better off in a well visited on shore restaurant. The river cruise is nice, but nothing great, though if you're into gambling, there's the casino boat that goes down the Mandovi.
When in Panaji, check out the colours around you. Buildings are painted in bright colours that reflect the sun's light. Yellow, Blue, Green, White. Most of it was done up for the International Film Festival in India, so it's still fresh. All the government buildings, the ministry, the police headquarters are in their finest. Also check out the little eateries by the Mandovi's canals. Elsewhere, one sees Portuguese style houses everywhere, many serve as local bars, shops and restaurants.
The Goan people though, are what gives Goa its charm. The laid back attitude that's apparent everywhere. Life is too short to be taken seriously, and one should always spend time appreciating its finer moments. It's in the bus conductor who'll hold up a bus while someone runs a mile to catch it, and the bus driver who'll stop the bus anywhere you want him to. It's in the little old lady standing on the side of the road with her fish basket, and the man collecting toddy from palms. It's in the afternoon siesta to urak and fenny. It's everywhere. If you try to fight it, it will exasperate you. Just go along with the flow and you'll be happy.
The best times to visit Goa are in winter, during New Year's and during the Carnival that happens just before Ash Wednesday.
I don't think I'll ever get enough of Goa. The bird and wildlife sanctuaries are on the agenda the next time I visit. But for now, I'll let the sun go down.
I've made many a trip to Goa, for business, pleasure and parties, and they've always been the most relaxing, and enjoyable trips of my life.
There is no best way to get to Goa. Boat, bus, train and air, each have their own charms to offer. Flying to Goa from Bombay takes you down by the coast, with beaches all the way.
Within Goa, I always travel by bus.
I travel by air a lot, and I like it more because of the bus ride from the airport to Panaji. One passes through Chikalim, then on past Saõ Jacinto island, over the Zuari - which is beautiful on both sides, and through numerous villages to get to Bambolim and Panaji. Small eateries on the side of the road invite you in with signs of Sorpotel and Sannas.
I'll let you in to a little secret. If you're taking a night walk, walk slowly near where the waves come in. Perhaps even stop and sit for a while, and look closely for movement. If you're lucky, you might see small birds running after the wave as it goes out trying to get at the microscopic creatures they bring in. I don't know what they're called though, and it's really tough to see them at night. At first I thought that they were crabs, but then they chirped and flew away.
Further south, the beach of Bogmalo is a long stretch of white sands and blue water, and little else. There aren't too many people around this area.
One of my favourite beaches is the Cove at Dona Paula. It's a really small beach, and at high tide, the water covers it completely. The area is really safe for swimming as the cove formed by rocks some way out completely shield you from currents in the open ocean. The rocks on the side are nice to sit on and ponder. It's hard to find though, so get to Dona Paula, and ask the locals for the beach between the two resorts. Also ask about the legend of Dona Paula and get some Goan sausage bread at Menino's on the Jetty, and if you can, get Sunday mass at the Governor's mansion.
Goa's two main rivers - the Mandovi and the Zuari - are a lifeline for the inner parts of the state. You'll find children swimming in them, and fishermen going out for freshwater fish. These are areas of Goa not touched by tourists, and if you know a local, it's best to go around with them. Both rivers meet the sea at Panaji.
There's too much to do in Goa, and too much to miss if you're on a short trip. Dining aboard a boat is an experience, but not all boats have great chefs, so pick carefully. You're better off in a well visited on shore restaurant. The river cruise is nice, but nothing great, though if you're into gambling, there's the casino boat that goes down the Mandovi.
When in Panaji, check out the colours around you. Buildings are painted in bright colours that reflect the sun's light. Yellow, Blue, Green, White. Most of it was done up for the International Film Festival in India, so it's still fresh. All the government buildings, the ministry, the police headquarters are in their finest. Also check out the little eateries by the Mandovi's canals. Elsewhere, one sees Portuguese style houses everywhere, many serve as local bars, shops and restaurants.
The Goan people though, are what gives Goa its charm. The laid back attitude that's apparent everywhere. Life is too short to be taken seriously, and one should always spend time appreciating its finer moments. It's in the bus conductor who'll hold up a bus while someone runs a mile to catch it, and the bus driver who'll stop the bus anywhere you want him to. It's in the little old lady standing on the side of the road with her fish basket, and the man collecting toddy from palms. It's in the afternoon siesta to urak and fenny. It's everywhere. If you try to fight it, it will exasperate you. Just go along with the flow and you'll be happy.
The best times to visit Goa are in winter, during New Year's and during the Carnival that happens just before Ash Wednesday.
I don't think I'll ever get enough of Goa. The bird and wildlife sanctuaries are on the agenda the next time I visit. But for now, I'll let the sun go down.
Monday, April 25, 2005
A week in Grenoble
When I left Bangalore, the weather report in France pointed towards
Spring. I packed 10 t-shirts and a couple of pairs of jeans, cotton socks and tennis shoes. Yup, this was going to be nice. Descended into Frankfurt for a change of flights. Fog all around. Oh well. That's Frankfurt I guess. Frankfurt was a good stopover. Got a chance to practice some German and had zwei Würtz mit Brotchen. It was sehr gut and bloody expensive too. Got myself Harry Potter und die Kammer des Schreckens from a bookstore for 15€. Someone please remind me to take pictures next time!
After the 5 hour wait at Frankfurt, left for Lyon. No window seat, but I could see out the window. Decided to pass some time reading Le Monde. Turned to the weather page. samedi et dimanche: neige. WTF? Looked out the window as we descended... ok, I'm not prepared for this, but whoa, cool! Snow! Everywhere. This was great and bad at the same time.
Luckily my cab was waiting at the airport and after a brisk walk across the airport driveway and to the parking lot, I got into the cab. Decided to sit in the front for a good view and to have a chat with the cabby - Bernhard. He explained quite a bit about the area, and I explained a bit about where I came from and the lack of snow back there.
Didn't have a chance to freshen up, had to go straight to the office as it was Monday afternoon already.
The next couple of days were spent at work with trips to the centre of town for dinner.
Went back into town on the weekend, this time for some shopping and real sight seeing.
Got myself some shirts, and a few good books:
- Asterix et les Goths — yeah, I had to have this one. French and German in one literary work. How could I miss it?
- Harry Potter et la chambre des secrets - I'm building a collection of this one book in multiple languages... or so I say.
- La petite chatreuse - for someone special :)
While walking around I'd noticed these
Organic Shops. Went into one of them. It was like a grocery store with all organically prepared fruits, vegetables and juices. Got myself an orange juice and a pomelo (un pamplemousse en Français). I'm not sure what the difference is, but it was tasty.
Daylight lasts really long, so even at 8pm it was still bright enough to see everything. I strolled into a park and walked around.
The next day I managed to get up to the Bastille, and could see all of Grenoble from there... and that's what I shall leave you with tonight.
Monday, May 10, 2004
Seoul on foot and train
Today I decided to go around the city by subway and on foot. Started by taking the subway to Chungmuro, and visited the Namsangol Korean village. The village is small - about 7500 sq.ft., but the houses are pretty. There was a wedding going on in one of them, and I took a few pictures.
Around the village the scenery is quite serene. Walked around for a while. There's a mountain stream that's not too full this time of the year. I guess as the rain picks up it will fill up, or maybe it's the melting snow at the start of spring that fills it up.
Next door to Namsangol is Korea house - which has traditional korean cuisine and weddings and other functions. I walked around a bit. Took pictures of this traditional wedding ceremony, and the musicians and all. Then looked around and there was this large crowd of people dressed in suits and their best formal wear. Peeked into one of the rooms and a buffet table was being set I think. I think I might have gatecrashed someone's wedding and taken pictures of it. The stares I got definitely hinted at it. :P
Got out of there quickly and moved on. Took the subway to Hansung University looking for the Seonjamdan Altar, but couldn't find it. Turned back to Hyehwa looking for Munmyo, but couldn't find that either. Instead found Roboworld and the science museum. After a quick look through I left and along the same road came to Changgyeonggung Palace.
Changgyeonggung is simply huge with loads and loads of gardens. I really hope my pictures come out because it was getting really overcast by then. It took me quite a while to walk around the whole place. Most interesting was the resting place of the placenta and umbilical cord of one of the emperors. Strange that they'd choose to preserve them.
Finishing with that, walked along the wall, and finally came to Changdeokgung, but couldn't go in. You're only allowed to enter with a guided tour, and there weren't any more English tours scheduled for the day. Missed the Royal shrine as well because I couldn't find the entrance, and my feet were too tired to search.
Got to Anguk station and took the train to Amsa with changes at Jongno sam ga and Cheonho. Went walking north towards the Prehistoric settlement site on the banks of the Han. It was already 7:15, and the place was closed, but I got an idea of how to get there - will try again one of these mornings.
After that headed to Jamsil to Lotte World. Decided to skip the amusement park as it was already 8:30, and went to the Lotte Mart instead and got myself some stuff for breakfast.
Got back to the COEX and decided to have dinner at Pizzahut - yeah, boring, but I needed a break and something familiar. Met another Indian guy there - Vikram. He just arrived today and works at Lucent.
Got back to the hotel around 10pm and I have wet socks, blisters on two toes because my socks shifted around too much, and my legs ache too. I think I shall sleep well.
Around the village the scenery is quite serene. Walked around for a while. There's a mountain stream that's not too full this time of the year. I guess as the rain picks up it will fill up, or maybe it's the melting snow at the start of spring that fills it up.
Next door to Namsangol is Korea house - which has traditional korean cuisine and weddings and other functions. I walked around a bit. Took pictures of this traditional wedding ceremony, and the musicians and all. Then looked around and there was this large crowd of people dressed in suits and their best formal wear. Peeked into one of the rooms and a buffet table was being set I think. I think I might have gatecrashed someone's wedding and taken pictures of it. The stares I got definitely hinted at it. :P
Got out of there quickly and moved on. Took the subway to Hansung University looking for the Seonjamdan Altar, but couldn't find it. Turned back to Hyehwa looking for Munmyo, but couldn't find that either. Instead found Roboworld and the science museum. After a quick look through I left and along the same road came to Changgyeonggung Palace.
Changgyeonggung is simply huge with loads and loads of gardens. I really hope my pictures come out because it was getting really overcast by then. It took me quite a while to walk around the whole place. Most interesting was the resting place of the placenta and umbilical cord of one of the emperors. Strange that they'd choose to preserve them.
Finishing with that, walked along the wall, and finally came to Changdeokgung, but couldn't go in. You're only allowed to enter with a guided tour, and there weren't any more English tours scheduled for the day. Missed the Royal shrine as well because I couldn't find the entrance, and my feet were too tired to search.
Got to Anguk station and took the train to Amsa with changes at Jongno sam ga and Cheonho. Went walking north towards the Prehistoric settlement site on the banks of the Han. It was already 7:15, and the place was closed, but I got an idea of how to get there - will try again one of these mornings.
After that headed to Jamsil to Lotte World. Decided to skip the amusement park as it was already 8:30, and went to the Lotte Mart instead and got myself some stuff for breakfast.
Got back to the COEX and decided to have dinner at Pizzahut - yeah, boring, but I needed a break and something familiar. Met another Indian guy there - Vikram. He just arrived today and works at Lucent.
Got back to the hotel around 10pm and I have wet socks, blisters on two toes because my socks shifted around too much, and my legs ache too. I think I shall sleep well.
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Thursday, May 06, 2004
Children's Day
Today was Children's day, and a holiday here in Korea. We went to Gyeongbokgung Palace, and got there in time for the changing of the guard. I tell you, it's a long process. An enemy could attack and be done with the war during that time.
We started at Samseong Dung - which is where I stay. Look at the Subway map (needs flash, zoom in a couple of times). It's no. 219 on the green line. Headed down to Seoul National University of Education and switched to the Orange line to Gyeongbokgung (no 327) for the palace.
The palace is huge, and has a backdrop of mountains. There's a moat around one of the chambers, and also the museum of Seoul in there. We visited the museum, and then went out looking for lunch. Found it in a street market who's name i cannot remember.
We had a vegetarian dish - for once - with ginseng gin. That was followed by a Korean pizza. Served in a shallow basket rather than a pan, and made out of vegetables, dough, cheese, octopus and prawns. You eat it with chopsticks, and there's a soya sauce mixture that you dip the pieces into before eating.
After lunch went down to the Dongdaemun market and got some stuff from there.
On the way out saw a dance competition for children's day where this 8 year old girl (I thought she was 3) totally blew the crowd away. She danced really well.
Took the subway back, really exhausted by then, and came back to the hotel. Took a short nap and washed my clothes.
Later went looking for a veg dinner as Arun was with me, but the guy at the Taiwanese place that we went too looked at us very quizzically, trying to hold back a laugh. Finally went down to the mall to Mr. Pizza. Had spaghetti with cheese and meat sauce, bread sticks, garlic bread and a salad bowl with unlimited refills.
Long and tiring day. I don't quite have the stamina for sight seeing that I used to.
Radio here is all Korean, but Yahoo! Launchcast gives me a good selection.
Good night
We started at Samseong Dung - which is where I stay. Look at the Subway map (needs flash, zoom in a couple of times). It's no. 219 on the green line. Headed down to Seoul National University of Education and switched to the Orange line to Gyeongbokgung (no 327) for the palace.
The palace is huge, and has a backdrop of mountains. There's a moat around one of the chambers, and also the museum of Seoul in there. We visited the museum, and then went out looking for lunch. Found it in a street market who's name i cannot remember.
We had a vegetarian dish - for once - with ginseng gin. That was followed by a Korean pizza. Served in a shallow basket rather than a pan, and made out of vegetables, dough, cheese, octopus and prawns. You eat it with chopsticks, and there's a soya sauce mixture that you dip the pieces into before eating.
After lunch went down to the Dongdaemun market and got some stuff from there.
On the way out saw a dance competition for children's day where this 8 year old girl (I thought she was 3) totally blew the crowd away. She danced really well.
Took the subway back, really exhausted by then, and came back to the hotel. Took a short nap and washed my clothes.
Later went looking for a veg dinner as Arun was with me, but the guy at the Taiwanese place that we went too looked at us very quizzically, trying to hold back a laugh. Finally went down to the mall to Mr. Pizza. Had spaghetti with cheese and meat sauce, bread sticks, garlic bread and a salad bowl with unlimited refills.
Long and tiring day. I don't quite have the stamina for sight seeing that I used to.
Radio here is all Korean, but Yahoo! Launchcast gives me a good selection.
Good night
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Wednesday, May 05, 2004
Updates from Seoul
Sunday - May 2, 2004
Flight was good. Friend of mine from VJTI was on the same flight on his way to San Francisco. Landed about 5 minutes late, which was okay. Stood in the wrong line for about 5 mins before someone told me that i had to go straight to immigration. Finished with immigration - wanted to take some photos there, but couldn't think of anything to shoot.Then i went to collect my baggage, but i was too late, so did not see my flight number on any of the belts. Asked someone, and he told me that it was on belt 6, but since the baggage had already been removed, my suitcase would be on the floor in front of the belt. I found it there along with 4 other bags.
Walked around the airport looking for the limousine ticket counter. Found two cops who only spoke Korean, but somehow managed to get directions from them. Got my ticket - 12000 Won. I had already changed a few dollars @ 1130 Won, but I'll need more now - to pay the hotel and all.
Limousine was good, and i think i should have taken photos along the way, but the roll in the camera is the 100 speed one, which is not suitable for moving targets. Will try and finish this roll soon, but it's raining today, so conditions are bad.
The hotel is one building away from the bus terminal, so i just walked it. Had to check in on the 5th floor. My room is on the 7th.
The room is nice. It's a studio apt, with attached bathroom, and kitchen. Also has a TV and DVD player, a wardrobe, a washing machine and iron/ironing board, so i shouldn't need to pay for housekeeping.
After I'd checked in, settled in, and watched Ice Age - the second half of it, I went out. The sun was still up till past 7:30. I went looking around for dinner, since i was starving by then.
There's a mall under the hotel - actually i think it goes on all around the block. The world trade centre is next to my hotel, and the mall is below it. I need to take pictures of that place - it is huge and glass.
I found quite a few food places down there. Most of them have everything except the prices written in Korean. I learnt an important lesson - no use being able to read a language if you can't understand what the words mean.
Luckily, most restaurants have samples of all dishes or pictures put up for you to pick from. I had some spicy seafood thing. I'm not sure though that that was representative of spicy food here, or else, Korean food isn't very spicy.
The dish was a mistake simply because i have never figured out how to eat crab with either a spoon or chopsticks. At least not while it's still in the shell. I decided to go desi and eat with my hands. Was the only person around doing that, and the last to finish eating.
It was closing time before i finished, so i sped up, returned the dishes, and said Kamsahamnida to the lady. She offered me Mul (water) and said Annyeonghi geseyo.
I then walked around a bit in the mall, which was closing down slowly. They have the biggest book store in Asia right there, and it just went on and on. All books in Korean though.
Finally, got out of the mall, and found my way to the glass tower, where I was supposed to go Monday morning.
Returned to the hotel and went to sleep.
Monday - May 3, 2004
Woke up at 9 and was in the office at 9:45 today. Had the meeting in the afternoon when the rest of the team had arrived.I'd lost the password for the laptop (well, actually the problem is that the Ctrl and Caps lock keys were interchanged). Called up Yathin at 11:30 (8am Bangalore time) and got the password from him, along with other laptop info.
11:30 is also lunch time here, so we went out then. Went to a French place called marché. It's supposed to be an international line. They have Italian, and Korean and Japanese food there. And all the french stuff as well - salads and breads and all. I had some prawn rice. The other guys had spaghetti, and some Japanese soup.
Everything is automatic here. It took me a while to figure out how to flush the toilet - my method was to use the 'manual override' found behind the toilet seat - I suppose most Koreans would use one of the buttons on the right. Oh, whatever. Some of the doors still require to be pushed/pulled.
My card key for my room also tells the elevator which floor to go to.
That evening we had dinner at 6:30pm. We had boiled pork and kimchi, and assorted vegetables and sauces. I took a few pictures.
Finished off at the office at 8, and went strolling through the mall. Looked at some of the clothes stuff, and they have nice outfits, but a little expensive. Not going to buy too much.
Tuesday - May 5, 2004
Today we had some kind of chicken curry with ttokkapi. It was very nice. I think I'm improving with the chopsticks. They have stainless steel ones that are really thin and hard to grip, but I'm getting the hang of it. Today I was able to pull pieces of the chicken out of it.For breakfast I had fried noodles at another food court. None of the guys at the shop spoke English, and the guy at the counter needed to tell me something. Finally he picked up the clock and pointed to the time indicating when it would be ready.
In the meantime he gave me a coke. I walked around and took some pictures in the bright sunlight. Today is a nice day.
After lunch we went around the mall checking out all the hardware. Then got back to the office and had a long meeting that got over a little while ago.
Tomorrow is a holiday because of children's day. Will be going sightseeing. There's also a river nearby and they have a cruise. I might go for that sometime.
For dinner we had boiled ribs with different kinds of mushrooms and the usual assortment of vegetables and kimchi. It's quite an expensive dish. I'll get all the Korean names later. I can read the names, but cannot remember them. Need to learn to remember what the letters look like.
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Thursday, February 26, 2004
Night around town
Wednesday (25th) night, we drove around town. Left home around 11:30pm, down to Pali hill to pick up Sudarshan. Then, headed towards town. Past Worli, Haji Ali, then Bhulabai Desai road, turn off to Napean Sea road, up to Malabar hill, around Walkeshwar, the Governor's mansion, Girgaum Chowpatti, and stopped at Charni Road for Bachelor's ice cream.
Earlier in the day I'd had my car radio fixed, and figured out how to set the channels (by searching for manuals on the net), so we had music all the way through. Sudarshan had his MP3 player with radio broadcast, so he could play music on my radio through that.
Sarah and I shared a green chilly ice cream, ginger orange and coffee walnut. Jacquie stuck to her usual of chocolate, while Sudarshan went for a pomegranate milk shake. We asked the guy who served us to take a few pictures, but he was positively overwhelmed with Sarah's digicam.
Second round of ice creams and Jacquie had a black currant. Sudarshan, Sarah and I shared two falooda's.
After that had to find a U-turn to head back home, but kept skipping them till I got to the end of the land at NCPA. Turned around and went back down the length of Marine Drive. Wanted to go back via Malabar hill and hanging gardens, but the cops had set up a naka bandi at the road turning off chowpatti, so ended up doing the regular Peddar road route.
Turned off at Worli to go via the sea face, and then headed home.
Stopped on Cadell road, near Shivaji Park to fill up the tank. The HP guy also cleaned my wind screen with soap and water, so it was really clear the rest of the way home.
Had to drop Sudarshan back first, so we drove down to linking road, and then to pali, and up through zig-zag road to reach pali hill. Decided to skip Carter road, and took Perry road instead to get home.
Earlier in the day I'd had my car radio fixed, and figured out how to set the channels (by searching for manuals on the net), so we had music all the way through. Sudarshan had his MP3 player with radio broadcast, so he could play music on my radio through that.
Sarah and I shared a green chilly ice cream, ginger orange and coffee walnut. Jacquie stuck to her usual of chocolate, while Sudarshan went for a pomegranate milk shake. We asked the guy who served us to take a few pictures, but he was positively overwhelmed with Sarah's digicam.
Second round of ice creams and Jacquie had a black currant. Sudarshan, Sarah and I shared two falooda's.
After that had to find a U-turn to head back home, but kept skipping them till I got to the end of the land at NCPA. Turned around and went back down the length of Marine Drive. Wanted to go back via Malabar hill and hanging gardens, but the cops had set up a naka bandi at the road turning off chowpatti, so ended up doing the regular Peddar road route.
Turned off at Worli to go via the sea face, and then headed home.
Stopped on Cadell road, near Shivaji Park to fill up the tank. The HP guy also cleaned my wind screen with soap and water, so it was really clear the rest of the way home.
Had to drop Sudarshan back first, so we drove down to linking road, and then to pali, and up through zig-zag road to reach pali hill. Decided to skip Carter road, and took Perry road instead to get home.
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